Which PPF should you choose?

What PPF is and what it protects against

PPF, or paint protection film, is a clear polyurethane film bonded to the painted surface. Its job is to take the stone chips, sand scratches, insect and bird dropping etching and the micro scratches left by wash brushes, so the factory paint underneath stays untouched. A proper film is about 150–200 micrometres thick: two to three times thicker than vinyl wrap and tens of times thicker than a ceramic coating.

It is only fair to say what film does not protect against. A large stone can leave a dent through the film, a deep key scratch goes through it, and no film helps in a collision. PPF is wear protection against everyday traffic, not armour.

Three things that separate one film from another

Material: TPU or something cheaper

A quality protection film is made of thermoplastic polyurethane, TPU. TPU is elastic, does not yellow quickly in the sun and copes with an Estonian winter. There are also cheaper films on the market with a PVC or TPH base. They are stiffer to install, turn brittle over time, and yellowing and cracking show up within two or three years. If a quote does not name the material, ask directly.

Top coat: self-healing and hydrophobic

The top layer decides how the car looks day to day. A self-healing top coat smooths out the fine scratches from wash brushes and fingernails on its own when the surface warms up in the sun or under warm water. A hydrophobic layer makes water and dirt roll off, so the car stays clean longer. STEK DYNOshield adds a nano-glass top coat on top of that, bringing the properties of a ceramic coating into the film itself: the water beading lasts longer and the surface is harder.

Clarity and surface finish

Two films can look alike on a data sheet and different on a car. Look at whether the film is crystal clear or slightly hazy, whether the surface shows orange peel, and whether the edges come out clean. A good installer shows you the film on a real car, not only in a catalogue.

Warranty: read what it covers

The length of the warranty is an easy number, but the content matters more. Ask whether it covers yellowing, cracking, adhesive failure and staining, how long it runs and who honours it. STEK premium films carry a manufacturer warranty of up to 10 years against yellowing and cracking, registered through the installer. If a seller says "lifetime warranty" without written terms, that is a sales line, not a warranty.

Installation matters as much as the film

The same roll of film can last ten years in one workshop and two in another. The difference comes from preparation, cutting and edges.

• Preparation. The paint is washed, decontaminated with clay and degreaser and polished where needed before the film goes on. A scratch left under the film stays there for ten years.
• Cutting. Film cut on a plotter from the manufacturer pattern keeps the blade away from the paint. Hand cutting on the car takes experience and is where cheap work damages paint.
• Edges. Edges wrapped behind the panel edge do not collect dirt and do not start lifting. Ask which edges are wrapped and which are left exposed.
• Removing parts. Handles, lights and badges come off in proper work so the film runs underneath them.

STEK films in short

All of these are installed by a STEK partner who also backs the film with the warranty. Series details are on the DYNO product page, and installers are listed under PPF installers.

Which package?

Most stone chips land on the bumper, the leading edge of the bonnet, the front wings and the mirrors. A front package covers exactly that risk zone and is where most customers start. Full coverage is chosen by people who want the car to stay new from every angle, or who drive a lot on highways and gravel. A middle option is the front package plus the door sills, the areas behind the door handles and the B-pillars, which wear the most in daily use. Price ranges by package are on the wrapping prices page.

Common mistakes when choosing a film

• Choosing on price alone. The gap between two quotes usually comes from the film class and the amount of work, not from an installer being greedy. The cheapest film costs double when it is replaced two years later.
• Choosing on thickness alone. A thicker film is not better if the base is PVC. 150 micrometres of proper TPU protects better than 200 micrometres of stiff film that cracks.
• A warranty that is never registered. The manufacturer warranty applies only when the installer is certified and registers the installation. Ask for the registration confirmation.
• Film on a used car without polishing. Everything left under the film stays there for years. Polishing before film is not an upsell, it is part of the job.
• Leaving tint and windscreen film for later. When the glass is done in the same workshop at the same time you save a day and often money. The DYNOtop windscreen film and the tint films come from the same range.

Frequently asked questions